Matterhorn 4478m – Guided Ascents
Climb the Matterhorn with IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide
A dream is born in most mountaineers that get a glimpse of the Matterhorn – to one day climb this extraordinary beautiful peak.
Reaching the summit requires determination, a good level of fitness and alpine experience as well as favorable conditions. We offer a 6-day and 5-day course for private groups and individuals to climb Matterhorn with us.
Guided Matterhorn Climbs
Climbing Matterhorn is long and difficult (AD via the normal routes). The length of the climb demands good stamina and physical condition, and enough rock, snow and ice climbing experience to be able to move fast and efficiently in various mountain terrain.
The easiest way to climb Matterhorn is from the Zermatt side via the Hörnli hut (3260m) and the Hörnli ridge. From the Hörnli hut we climb a rock ridge that is about 1200m long. The route is very exposed, mainly consisting of lower-grade rock climbing, with and without crampons, and some sections on larger snow fields. Once we have reached the top we are exactly half way, the descent follows the same route we came up!
Because of its beauty, Matterhorn is a popular climb. Your guide will know how to manage the crowds and ensure the obligatory fast progress up the mountain. During the ascent of the Matterhorn each person will climb with his or her own guide.
During the preparation days each guide can climb with up to 2 persons. We will climb some technical 4000m peaks and classic alpine mountaineering routes in Chamonix, where we focus on climbing skills and adjusting to altitude. We also get at least 2 nights in high altitude huts to ensure adequate acclimatization. You will learn basic rope work techniques, how to belay and how to rappel.
Best time
Ability
Matterhorn ascent - 5-day course
Duration
Season
Group size
Price
This program provides just enough acclimatization and preparation for an enjoyable and successful ascent of the Matterhorn.
Day 1
We take the cable car to the Flegere and climb the Index. The afternoon is spent in the local climbing area, improving our climbing technique and learning how to rappel and how to belay each other.
Day 2
We climb the Dent du Geant (4013m). The “giant’s tooth” is one of the most spectacular peaks in the alps and a great preparation for the Matterhorn . After 600m of scrambling we reach the actual base of the climb. 200m more of steep climbing and we get to the summit. 3 x 50m rappels bring us back onto solid ground. Another 600m of scrambling downhill and we are back on the Glacier du Geant.
Then we sleep in the Turino Refuge (3371m).
Day 3
After an early morning start we traverse Aiguille du Entreve (3600m) and then we go back down to Chamonix for a long nights’ rest.
Day 4
The last 2 days we climb the Matterhorn. In the morning we drive to Zermatt and ascend the Hornli refuge.
Day 5 We climb the Matterhorn. Descend and drive back to Chamonix.
Price: | Group size: 1 2 3 | Price per person: 3935 € 2970 € 3290 € |
Included
– 5 days of private guiding: max 2 clients/guide the first 3 days, 1:1 client/guide ratio on the 2 Matterhorn days.
– All valley transport in Chamonix, and transport to Zermatt return to Chamonix
– All necessary group equipment gear (ropes, karabiners)
– All expenses for your guides
Not included
– mountain rescue insurance (more info here under Insurance)
– Accommodation in Chamonix
– 2 nights half board in mountain huts
– lift passes
Matterhorn ascent - 6-day course
Duration
Season
Group Size
Price
The 6-day course provides an even higher probability of success than the 5-day course as it gives more time for acclimatization and training as well as more options for the summit day. Especially if you are 2 or more persons we recommend this program, since availability in the huts can become a limitation of flexibility for bigger groups.
The program is the same as for the 5-day Matterhorn course except for one more day of fun climbing in Chamonix either before or after climbing the Matterhorn.
Price: | Group size: 1 2 3 | Price per person: 4575 € 3570 € 3890 € |
Included
– 6 days of private guiding:
max 2 clients/guide on the preparation days, 1:1 client/guide ratio climbing Matterhorn
– All valley transport in Chamonix, transport to Zermatt and back to Chamonix
– All necessary group equipment gear (ropes, karabiners)
– All expenses for your guides
Not included
– mountain rescue insurance
– Accommodation in Chamonix
– 2 nights half board in mountain huts
– lift passes
FAQ’s
Essentially you need to be able to climb up and down easy terrain (French grade 2) quick and safely. You also must be able to climb grade 4 (French rock grade). You need to have experience scrambling on rock, snow and ice, with and without crampons.
If you do not have a lot of previous climbing and mountaineering experience we recommend you to do a alpine climbing course with us, or a Mont Blanc course, or simply come for a few days of guided mountaineering before attempting the Matterhorn course.
Contact us to get your tailor made program for guiding in the most beautiful skiing and climbing locations on the planet!