In the middle of the complex south-east face of Grepon unwinds one of Chamoinx's greatest classics; Grepon-Mer de Glace, D, 850m, first done in 1911! Now days it's sometimes done in one day return from Chamonix, ascent via Montenvers train and cable car down-load from Plan de l'Aiguille. We did it a bit more old-school, carrying bivouak gear, setting off in the afternoon and spending the night on a large ledge 200m above the petit Trelaporte glacier. Read More
The East ridge of Aig. du Plan rises from a series of massive bergschrunds, off Glacier Enverse de Blatière, in the heart of Les Aiguille des Chamonix. This prominent ridge line was first climbed in 1906 by Lochmatter brothers and Ryan, later on alternative starts were added in adaption to the varying conditions of the glacier. Arete Ryan is a mix of slabs, cracks, chimneys and horizontal line-dancing. Solitude, exposure and wildness! Read More
From Siberian cold to summer warm, we skied everything from dried out powder to spring snow in February. In March, the valley turned to spring and we skied corn snow on south faces, while north faces still offered powder skiing. Enjoy the 3rd and 4th video episode of Chamonix off-piste skiing. Read More
Chamonix, the outdoor mountain sport capital of the world, and an idyllic town of 12.000 yearly inhabitants at the foot of Mont Blanc. Well away from stressful and grey big-city-atmosphere, breathing healthy mountain air and value what is really important in life… Dream on, that image is about as a false as the smiling doctor on a Lucky Strike package. The sad reality is that it is that we choke on air pollution! Read More
Skipping the pre-season in Chamonix this year and going straight for mid-winter powder skiing during most of December! Since it started it never really stopped. The general snow cover is better then ever and we especially enjoy all the skiing on the lower half of the mountains, exploring new variations that are seldom skiable but now full of fluffy snow on a thick base. Read More
Stretching from the end of the Nantillons glacier to the summit of Grand Charmoz (3445m), this 650m high granite pillar is a big alpine rock classic in Chamonix. Grand Charmoz is one of those prominent peaks that you look up at from the valley every day and dream to stand on top of, and the Cordier Pillar is most defined line up the north-west face. A true alpine environment to approach with great care... Read More
My idea of ice climbing was that it was a pure hassle and involved a lot of suffering, but this year I gave it a chance, just to understand the mystery of why people practice this intimidating sport. I found out what ice climbing is all about, and in the mean time I got to explore some easy ice climbing spots around Chamonix. Recommendations and current conditions. Read More
The satellite of Grands Charmoz catches the eye of every climber. The esthetic shape is a serious temptation for those who like to stand on top of a sharp rock needle with 1000m of air between them and the glacier. The Normal Route to La République offers a relatively easy way to the summit needle. Still the route is 600m long, mainly grade 4 alpine rock climbing, that requires efficacy in rope maneuvers, route finding and progress on traditional gear - it's a complete alpine adventure! Read More
After the Easter holidays Chamonix gets quiet. The town is now all green and flowery, snow is settling on the high mountain faces, and barbecues are held everywhere (even on Mer de Glace!). We have been busy ski touring and ski mountaineering around Chamonix, escaping the pollen invasion by staying in the mountains, but occasionally coming down to attend a barbecue or two. Read More
Waking up on the 1st of April the spring-green Chamonix town had turned into a proper winter-white ski town, and it kept dumping all day long. 50cm on 3000m, rain-snow limit on 800m. The best April fool's joke ever! From that point onwards there is only deep powder skiing and an abundance of fresh snow to be reported. However the weather has been very changable with strong winds at times. Read More
We often get the following question before people book a guided Mont Blanc ascent with us: How hard is it? How much preparation and acclimatization do I need? How do I train for climbing Mt Blanc? This is what you can expect from a week of mountaineering in Chamonix including the ascent of Mt Blanc: Read More
After a long time of cold temperatures and light snow we got warm and unstable weather during week 8. Just when the winter fleeces were about to be stached away we got hit by the biggest storm of the year on the 26 Feb - it just would not stop snowing! Warm and variable weather with regular snow falls and strong winds seams to follow in the footsteps of the big dump... keeping powder skiing on its peak and avalanche danger high. Read More
