The most popular mountaineering route accessed from Almageller hut is the Traverse of the Weissmies (4023m), a classic 4000er in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. But before, once at Almageller hut, we recommend to climb one of the region's most spectacular attractions; the Portjengrat. Much more demanding both in difficulty and length. Read More
Archives for Route Descriptions
Grepon-Mer De Glace – A Pearl Among Classics
In the middle of the complex south-east face of Grepon unwinds one of Chamoinx's greatest classics; Grepon-Mer de Glace, D, 850m, first done in 1911! Now days it's sometimes done in one day return from Chamonix, ascent via Montenvers train and cable car down-load from Plan de l'Aiguille. We did it a bit more old-school, carrying bivouak gear, setting off in the afternoon and spending the night on a large ledge 200m above the petit Trelaporte glacier. Read More
Arete Ryan – Aiguille du Plan East Ridge
The East ridge of Aig. du Plan rises from a series of massive bergschrunds, off Glacier Enverse de Blatière, in the heart of Les Aiguille des Chamonix. This prominent ridge line was first climbed in 1906 by Lochmatter brothers and Ryan, later on alternative starts were added in adaption to the varying conditions of the glacier. Arete Ryan is a mix of slabs, cracks, chimneys and horizontal line-dancing. Solitude, exposure and wildness! Read More
Cordier Pillar on Grand Charmoz
Stretching from the end of the Nantillons glacier to the summit of Grand Charmoz (3445m), this 650m high granite pillar is a big alpine rock classic in Chamonix. Grand Charmoz is one of those prominent peaks that you look up at from the valley every day and dream to stand on top of, and the Cordier Pillar is most defined line up the north-west face. A true alpine environment to approach with great care... Read More
Normal Route Aiguille de la République
The satellite of Grands Charmoz catches the eye of every climber. The esthetic shape is a serious temptation for those who like to stand on top of a sharp rock needle with 1000m of air between them and the glacier. The Normal Route to La République offers a relatively easy way to the summit needle. Still the route is 600m long, mainly grade 4 alpine rock climbing, that requires efficacy in rope maneuvers, route finding and progress on traditional gear - it's a complete alpine adventure! Read More
Topo of Aiguilles Rouges Ski Tours
Featuring some popular ski tours in Les Aiguilles Rouges in Chamonix. Starting from the Index chair lift in Flegère, over various mountain passes, and skiing down Vallon de Bérarde to the train station in Le Buet. We like the Aiguille Rouges ski tours because you hike up on south faces and ski north faces. This often means enjoying the sun on the way up and skiing cold powder on the way down until late spring. Read More
Skiing South East Face of Aiguille d’Entreves
The first real powder skiing experience this year we got on the Punta Helbronner, on the south side of the Mont Blanc Massif. Skiing 20cm of light powder on top of a soft base, we had the whole mountains all to our selves. Evidently Chamonix already holds great conditions for ski touring and off-piste skiing if you know where to go ski in the early season. Read More
Fidel Fiasco on Aiguille de Blatière West Face
Fidel Fiasco on Aiguille de Blatière; a 350m long route on slabs and thin cracks, graded ED overall, considered a classic test piece for advanced alpine rock climbing in Chamonix. It has retained its style of pure trad climbing and is bolted (sparsely) only on the completely crack free slabs, truly 6b obligatory! Read More
Aiguille Dibona – The Perfect Rock Needle
We are visiting Massif des Ecrins in the southern French Alps to climb Aiguille Dibona. It is a magnificent rock needle twisting towards the sky. On its south face goes the route Visite Obligatoire, 400m, 6a+. A sustained and solid route on slabs to vertical walls with characteristic water runnels. Read More