Archives for Route Descriptions

Portjengrat & Weissmies Traverse

The most popular mountaineering route accessed from Almageller hut is the Traverse of the Weissmies (4023m), a classic 4000er in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. But before, once at Almageller hut, we recommend to climb one of the region's most spectacular attractions; the Portjengrat. Much more demanding both in difficulty and length. Read More

Grepon-Mer De Glace – A Pearl Among Classics

In the middle of the complex south-east face of Grepon unwinds one of Chamoinx's greatest classics; Grepon-Mer de Glace, D, 850m, first done in 1911! Now days it's sometimes done in one day return from Chamonix, ascent via Montenvers train and cable car down-load from Plan de l'Aiguille. We did it a bit more old-school, carrying bivouak gear, setting off in the afternoon and spending the night on a large ledge 200m above the petit Trelaporte glacier. Read More

Arete Ryan – Aiguille du Plan East Ridge

The East ridge of Aig. du Plan rises from a series of massive bergschrunds, off Glacier Enverse de Blatière, in the heart of Les Aiguille des Chamonix. This prominent ridge line was first climbed in 1906 by Lochmatter brothers and Ryan, later on alternative starts were added in adaption to the varying conditions of the glacier. Arete Ryan is a mix of slabs, cracks, chimneys and horizontal line-dancing. Solitude, exposure and wildness! Read More

Cordier Pillar on Grand Charmoz

Stretching from the end of the Nantillons glacier to the summit of Grand Charmoz (3445m), this 650m high granite pillar is a big alpine rock classic in Chamonix. Grand Charmoz is one of those prominent peaks that you look up at from the valley every day and dream to stand on top of, and the Cordier Pillar is most defined line up the north-west face. A true alpine environment to approach with great care... Read More

Normal Route Aiguille de la République

The satellite of Grands Charmoz catches the eye of every climber. The esthetic shape is a serious temptation for those who like to stand on top of a sharp rock needle with 1000m of air between them and the glacier. The Normal Route to La République offers a relatively easy way to the summit needle. Still the route is 600m long, mainly grade 4 alpine rock climbing, that requires efficacy in rope maneuvers, route finding and progress on traditional gear - it's a complete alpine adventure! Read More

Topo of Aiguilles Rouges Ski Tours

Featuring some popular ski tours in Les Aiguilles Rouges in Chamonix. Starting from the Index chair lift in Flegère, over various mountain passes, and skiing down Vallon de Bérarde to the train station in Le Buet. We like the Aiguille Rouges ski tours because you hike up on south faces and ski north faces. This often means enjoying the sun on the way up and skiing cold powder on the way down until late spring. Read More

Aiguille Dibona – The Perfect Rock Needle

We are visiting Massif des Ecrins in the southern French Alps to climb Aiguille Dibona. It is a magnificent rock needle twisting towards the sky. On its south face goes the route Visite Obligatoire, 400m, 6a+. A sustained and solid route on slabs to vertical walls with characteristic water runnels. Read More