Archives for Rock Climbing

The Needles – From Nature To Rock Climbers

After an hour of pleasant cross-country hiking, the canyon between the Sorcerer and the Witch Needles opens up to you and hits with a striking beauty! Overlooking an alley framed by vertical, neon-green to white, granite walls. There is no need for a guide book to find the classic climbs. The perfect lines of cracks and corners are drawn out for you right there in the rock. Read More

Grepon-Mer De Glace – A Pearl Among Classics

In the middle of the complex south-east face of Grepon unwinds one of Chamoinx's greatest classics; Grepon-Mer de Glace, D, 850m, first done in 1911! Now days it's sometimes done in one day return from Chamonix, ascent via Montenvers train and cable car down-load from Plan de l'Aiguille. We did it a bit more old-school, carrying bivouak gear, setting off in the afternoon and spending the night on a large ledge 200m above the petit Trelaporte glacier. Read More

Arete Ryan – Aiguille du Plan East Ridge

The East ridge of Aig. du Plan rises from a series of massive bergschrunds, off Glacier Enverse de Blatière, in the heart of Les Aiguille des Chamonix. This prominent ridge line was first climbed in 1906 by Lochmatter brothers and Ryan, later on alternative starts were added in adaption to the varying conditions of the glacier. Arete Ryan is a mix of slabs, cracks, chimneys and horizontal line-dancing. Solitude, exposure and wildness! Read More

Rock Climbing Geyikbayiri Turkey

So far our search for the highest quality of rock (and of life in general) has led us from Chamonix to Kalymnos via Arco and Finale Ligure, and we have now reached Geyikbayiri. Here we enjoy the calm country life in the green mountains above Antalya in southern Turkey. A place where you can focus 100% on your climbing, and eating of course! Read More

Cordier Pillar on Grand Charmoz

Stretching from the end of the Nantillons glacier to the summit of Grand Charmoz (3445m), this 650m high granite pillar is a big alpine rock classic in Chamonix. Grand Charmoz is one of those prominent peaks that you look up at from the valley every day and dream to stand on top of, and the Cordier Pillar is most defined line up the north-west face. A true alpine environment to approach with great care... Read More

Trad Climbing in Bohuslän

Bohuslän is Swedens foremost climbing area. The solid granite offers smooth vertical walls with clean splitters that makes it itch in the fingers of any crack climber. Trad-climbing areas like this are very rare in Europe. Those continuous finger or hand cracks you occasionally come across in the Alps (after 2h approach and 5 pitches of slab climbing) are lined up on 50-100m high walls, often rising off a lawn with playing children, a pick-nicking family or a few casual-looking cows. Read More

Sustainable Tourism to Tufa Land Heaven?

Kalymnos is possibly the most popular climbing crag in the world! Climbers in cooperation with locals have brought a massive increase to the tourism on Kalymnos. The flexibility shown by local tradesmen and the quantity of high-quality rock climbing achieved is impressive. However, Kalymnos have yet to prove the sustainability of a climbers based tourist economy as well as environmental responsibility. Read More

Normal Route Aiguille de la République

The satellite of Grands Charmoz catches the eye of every climber. The esthetic shape is a serious temptation for those who like to stand on top of a sharp rock needle with 1000m of air between them and the glacier. The Normal Route to La République offers a relatively easy way to the summit needle. Still the route is 600m long, mainly grade 4 alpine rock climbing, that requires efficacy in rope maneuvers, route finding and progress on traditional gear - it's a complete alpine adventure! Read More

Rock Climbing Paklenica Croatia

Driving south from Austria, through Slovenia, following the scenic road along the Croatian coast to reach Paklenica National park. Here a deep gorge extends from the sea to the mountains, lined with grey limestone walls up to 350m high. For technical climbing on the compact, grey limestone, and a sunny holiday by the sea, the place it perfect! Read More

How To Learn Alpine Climbing

What is alpine climbing and how do you attack and proceed in this activity? Climbing in the high mountains demands careful preparation and a certain amount of experience. Only by stepping up slowly, choosing the right objectives and acquiring the adequate skills before, this adventurous sport becomes safe and highly enjoyable. Read More

Winter Rock Climbing in Finale Ligure

While waiting for the off-piste sharks to get buried we scout central Europe for rock climbing destinations in December. We found our last week of T-shirt free rock climbing in Finale Ligure, close to Genoa in Italy. Temperatures were perfect for climbing in the sun as well as in the shade. Even though we often go to Finale, just 3 hours drive from Chamonix, we continue to explore new sectors as well as revisiting our favorite ones. Read More

Rock Climbing Riglos & Rodellar

The 300m high conglomerate towers in Mallos de Riglos are one of a kind. Consisting of rounded rocks of all sizes from eggs to pilatus balls glued into an orange mud. On top of that it is greatly overhanging! Why would you build your home under this potentially rock-firing giant? And much less try to climb it!? Lyckily someone did, and now Riglos is one of Spains most popular area for more alpine-oriented climbers. Not far away, Rodellar offers a sport climbing mekka. Read More