Situated on the Swiss-Italian border, the Monte Rosa group is a series of 4000m summits, containing the highest peaks in Switzerland and the second highest summit in western Europe.
Below you find suggestions of 2 different programs, one where we aim to climb as many 4000m summits as possible over 4 days, and one where the main focus is climbing Lyskamm and Punta Dufour.
Monte Rosa 4000m Challenge
During 4 intense days we have the opportunity to climb up to eight 4000m summits! Included in this guided mountaineering weekend is also one exciting day of preparation and acclimatization.
We choose the Monte Rosa massif because it has the highest concentration of easy 4000m summits in the Alps. With lift access from Alagna we can easily reach the Mantova and Gniffeti huts from where we start our climbs. The eight 4000m summits intended can all be climbed by strong mountain walkers without any technical climbing experience.
This challenge is suitable either for you who would like to do your first 4000m-summit and gain some experience in altitude, or for very fit persons who would like to climb as many 4000m summits as possible. It is also the perfect challenge for those looking for an adventure for their charity event.
Our base for the week is a charming bed & breakfast in the village of Rassa (10min drive from Alagna, Valesia, Italy) on the south side of the Monte Rosa massif. From here we make two 2-day climbs involving series of 4000m peaks. Pre-dawn starts in the mountains are rewarded with excellent traditional food and relaxing afternoons either in the huts or down in the valley.
Day 0: Arrival in Rassa (Alagna), dinner at the B&B
Day 1: Via Ferrata di Cimalenga, a long and adventurous day out, taking us 1200 height meters up the mountain side. The most diffucult and exposed sections can be left out. From the end of the via ferrata we hike to the Mantova hut.
Day 2: Today we climb our first 4000m summit: Pyramide Vincent 4215m. With very strong teams we can climb Schwarzhorn 4322m and Blamenhorn 4167m as well. Descent to the valley and night in B&B.
Day 3: We either have a relaxing morning, before we ascend to Gnifetti hut, or if your legs feel strong we tackle another 4000m summit on the way. (Punta Giordani 4046m)
Day 4: Today we have big day. We climb Zumsteispitze (4563m, the 3rd highest summit in Italy and the 5th highest in the alps), followed by Signalkuppe 4554m, Parrotspitze 4432m and Ludwigshöhe 4341m.
In the evening of day 4 you could take a late evening flight home, or if you would like to you could also stay an additional night at our valley accommodation in Alagna.
|Price per person:
– 4 days of private guiding (max 4 clients per guide)
– 2 nights accommodation in Rassa (where you can keep the things, that you don’t bring to the mountains, during your whole stay), with dinner and breakfast
– Group climbing equipment (ropes, karabiners)
– Transport from Rassa to Alagna on the climbing days
– All expenses for your guides
– Mountain rescue insurance
– Lift passes
– 2 nights half-board in mountain huts
– Transport to Rassa (we arrange transfer from Milan Malpensa airport if you wish).
Inspiration Monte Rosa 4000ers :
Monte Rosa – Advanced 4000m Summits
Pyramide Vincent – Lyskamm – Punta Dufour
5 days of 1:1 guiding
The main goal of the week is to climb Lyskamm and DufourSpitze after acclimatising on Pyramide Vincent. However if you are very fit and keen we may also squeeze in an additional 4000m summit on the way.
Pyramide Vincent (4215m): As a first climb of the week we have the Cresta del Soldato on the menue. We will traverse Pyramide Vincent from west to east and while enjoying some beautiful mixed terrain we will be rewarded with stunning views of the wild east faces of the Monte Rosa massif.
Lyskamm (4527m) is one of the most stunning mountains in the alps. Being 4527m high, the summit is almost 100 meters higher than the Matterhorn. During this week we will climb Lyskamm via the cresta Sella (south ridge) and descent by the snowy east ridge back towards Punta Indren.
Dufourspitze (4634m) is the second highest summit in the Alps and the highest summit in Switzerland. The normal route to the summit of Dufourspitze starts from Monte Rosa Hütte (2883m) and from a climber’s point of view it is a pretty long slog.
Therefore we climb Durourspitze via the Italian normal route which is shorter but technically more demanding, following the sharp ridge between Zumsteinspitze and Dufour. We either start this final climb from the Gnifetti hut or Margarita hütte.
Day 1: Cresta Soldata on Pyramide Vicent, night in the valley
Day 2: After a relaxing morning we ascent to Mantova hut (3498m)
Day 3: Cresta Sella on Lyskamm, night in Gnifetti hut
Day 4: Dufourspitze(4634m) via the Italian normal route
Day 5: Extra weather day that we can use for rock climbing or an easier 4000m peak anytime during the week.
Who is this for: You should have good fitness and good experience with crampons and ice axe. The climbs follow narrow snow ridges and require good crampon work.
Price for 1 person: 2430€
– 5 days of 1:1 guiding
– All expenses for your guide
– Group climbing equipment (ropes, carbiners etc)
– Mountain rescue insurance
– Lift passes
– 2 nights half-board in mountain huts (about 60€ per night)
– 2 or 3 nights at B&B in the valley (about 70€ per night, including dinner)