Matterhorn 4478m - guided ascents
We offer a 5-day course for private groups and individuals to climb Matterhorn with UIAGM qualified mountain guides. During the ascent of the Matterhorn each person will climb with their own guide.
Climbing Matterhorn - General information
The Matterhorn is a fairly difficult peak to climb. The easiest way is from the Zermatt side via the Hörnli hut (3260m) and the Hörnli ridge.
The reason it is difficult are not only the actual climbing difficulties, but also the length of the climb.
From the Hörnli hut we climb a rock ridge that is about 1200m long.
Once we have reached the top we are exactly half way, the descent follows the same route we came up.
Best time: From mid/end of July to the end of August
Ability:
- You need to have good mountaineering experience.
- You need to be able to climb up and down easy terrain (French grade 2) quick and safely. You also must be able to climb grade 4 (French rock grade).
- Fitness and good acclimatisation are also very important factors to be successful.
Matterhorn ascent - 5 day course
During preparation time we will climb some technical 4000er peaks, focusing on climbing skills and adjusting to altitude.
We will also learn basic rope work techniques, how to belay each other and how to rappel.
Program
Day 1: We take the cable car to the Flegere and climb the Index. The afternoon is spent in the local climbing area, improving our climbing technique and learning how to rappel and how to belay each other.
Day 2: We climb the Dent du Geant (4013m). The "giant's tooth" is one of the most spectacular peaks in the alps and a great preparation for the Matterhorn . After 600m of scrambling we reach the actual base of the climb. 200m more of fun climbing and we get to the actual peak. 3 x 50m rappels bring us back onto solid ground. Another 600m of scrambling and we are back on the Glacier du Geant.
Then we sleep in the Turino Refuge (3371m).
Day 3: After an early morning start we traverse the Aiguille du Entreve (3600m) and then we go back down to Chamonix for a long nights rest.
Day 4: The last 2 days we climb the Matterhorn. In the morning we drive to Zermatt and ascend the Hornli refuge.
Day 5: We climb the Matterhorn.
Price: Depending on the number of persons booking. Please contact us for a quote.
Price includes:
- Guiding:
1:2 client/guide ratio during the preperation days
1:1 client/guide ratio during the ascent of the Matterhorn
- All valley transports in Chamonix, the transport to Zermatt and back to Chamonix
- All necessary group equipment gear (ropes, karabiners)
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