Climbing Motorhead – Eldorado

Two hours drive from Chamonix we can start our 1h30 hike along the Grimselsee towards the compact granite slabs of Eldorado. Motörhead is an amazing line following smooth crack and dihedrals from the start till the very end. 500m long Swiss classic, 14 pitches, and only the belays are bolted. The rounded and flaring cracks demand a certain experience with placing trad-gear, and the route is continuously grade 6a climbing.

This late August day, the cracks are still a bit wet from yesterday’s rain, but the sun and the wind is on our side and after a few pitches its good friction.

  • Approach along Grimselsee, towards the compact granite slabs of Eldorado
  • Seeing first half of Motörhead, following a distinct line of dihedrals
  • A slabby 5c-section on the second pitch poses the first difficulty
  • Slightly rounded cracks in the dihedrals, still wet from yesterday's rain
  • like this it goes on, with enjoyable 6a crack climbing
  • Pitch 6: from crack to crack to the next continuous dihedral
  • Grimselsee shimmering behind, stillness and beauty
  • Pitch 7, still following wide angle corners with flaring cracks
  • Pitch 7, after which we cut out of this dihedral by a steep passage to the right (not to be missed)...
  • ...eventually leading us to lower angle ground, and the green slab of pitch 10
  • The top part of the route then gets steeper again
  • After 12 pitches we're really getting the hang of the smooth corners
  • Twisting and turning up the corners, the cracks remain steep
  • As a present from nature a crack is offered us all the way...
  • ...to the very last summit slab, rolling over the summit
  • The hike back being as beautiful as the walk in
  • The trail back passing a huge waterfall giving us an unavoidable but needed shower
Activites: Alpine Rock Climbing.
Locations: Swiss Valais.
Seasons: Summer.