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The Valais 4000ers - Guided Ascents

The Saas and Zermatt regions of the Swiss Valais have the greatest concentration of 4000m peaks in the Alps. With proper acclimatization and mountaineering training many of these can be ascended without encountering great technical difficulty. Others present great challenges for experienced mountaineers. In the surroundings of these great peaks the potential for traditional mountaineering is immense, and routes for alpine climbers at all levels are possible.

Photos: Zinalrothorn

The Classic 4000m peaks – 5 day course

Climbing your first 4000m peaks is a great challenge and a milestone for mountaineers. This week we chose the classic 4000m peaks that can be climbed by strong mountain walkers without much technical climbing experience. Depending on the weather, conditions and your former ascents and current fitness we chose different objectives. There are enough peaks to choose from to come back year after year and increase the number of summits and their difficulty.
During this course our base will be Zermatt, but most nights we will spend in mountain huts. We get a good variety of climbing on glaciers, snow slopes, easy rock scrambling, ridges...and stunning views. Predawn starts will be aworded with relaxing, sunny afternoons in the huts.
We have the possibility to climb 5 spectacular 4000m peaks in 5 days!

Typical Itinerary

Day 1: Meet your guide in Zermatt, check gear. Ascent of Breithorn (4159m), sleep in the Ayas Hut.

Day 2: Climb Pollux (4092m) and possibly Castor (4228m). Descend to Zermatt.

Day 3: Drive to Saas Grund and walk to the Almageller Hut.

Day 4: Travers the Weissmiess.

Day 5: Climb the Lagginhorn.

Alternatively use the two last days to climb Monte Rosa, Switzerland’s highest peaks and the second highest in the Alps!

Ability: Confident mountain walkers with a good level of fitness to allow climbs of 5-9 hours in altitude. All the required alpine mountaineering skills will be thaught at the beginning of the week.
If you are completely new to mountaineering please consider our Intro Mountaineering Course, 5-day Mont Blanc Course or a few extra days of Classic Mountaineering in Chamonix to start with.

Group size: Each guide climbs with maximum 3 persons.

Included
- 5 days of private guiding
- climbing equipment ( harness, ropes, karabiners)
- transport between Zermatt and Saas Grund

Not included
- mountain rescue insurance
- 1 night in Saas Grund, but we will book it for you (about 40€)
- 3 nights half board in mountain refuges (about 50€ per night)
- Lift costs

The Technical 4000m peaks – 5 day course

This week we have the opportunity to climb one of the famous, technical 4000m peaks that is the dream of many mountaineers. This will be a test of skills and strength for experienced mountaineers against the harder summits of the alps.
We start with two days of preparation climbs in Chamonix then we move on to Zermatt from where we climb our bigger objective.
Possible peaks are: Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn, Dent Blanche or Schreckhorn. See special program to climb Matterhorn.

Itinerary

Day 1: Acclimatization peak in Chamonix, for ex Traverse of Aiguille d’Entrève. Sleep in Torino Hut. Review rope mangement, belaying, knots and climbing techniques.

Day 2: Climb Dent du Geant. Continue to review techniques, belaying, rappelling and down climbing. Sleep in Chamonix.

Day 3-5: Drive to Zermatt and climb our selected technical 4000m peak.

Ability:
- Good level of fitness to allow 8-12 hours of technical climbing.
- Good mountaineering experience and competent in using ice axe and crampons.
- Able to climb grade 4 (French rock grade) quickly and confidently.
- Mastering basic rope work techniques, rappelling and belaying.
To acquire all the required skills consider our introduction and advanced alpine climbing courses.

Price: Depending on the number of persons booking. Please contact us for a quote.

Price includes:
- Guiding: Max 2 clients per guide during the preperation days and 1:1 client/guide ratio during the ascent of the technical 4000m peak.
- All valley transports in Chamonix, the transport to Zermatt and back to Chamonix.
- All necessary group equipment gear (ropes, karabiners).

More reading about previous mountaineering adventures in the Valais region, guest testimonials, and other useful information in the Swiss Mountaineering blog category.