Archives for old classics

Grepon-Mer De Glace – A Pearl Among Classics

In the middle of the complex south-east face of Grepon unwinds one of Chamoinx's greatest classics; Grepon-Mer de Glace, D, 850m, first done in 1911! Now days it's sometimes done in one day return from Chamonix, ascent via Montenvers train and cable car down-load from Plan de l'Aiguille. We did it a bit more old-school, carrying bivouak gear, setting off in the afternoon and spending the night on a large ledge 200m above the petit Trelaporte glacier. Read More

Arete Ryan – Aiguille du Plan East Ridge

The East ridge of Aig. du Plan rises from a series of massive bergschrunds, off Glacier Enverse de Blatière, in the heart of Les Aiguille des Chamonix. This prominent ridge line was first climbed in 1906 by Lochmatter brothers and Ryan, later on alternative starts were added in adaption to the varying conditions of the glacier. Arete Ryan is a mix of slabs, cracks, chimneys and horizontal line-dancing. Solitude, exposure and wildness! Read More