Stretching from the end of the Nantillons glacier to the summit of Grand Charmoz (3445m), this 650m high granite pillar is a big alpine rock classic in Chamonix. Grand Charmoz is one of those prominent peaks that you look up at from the valley every day and dream to stand on top of, and the Cordier Pillar is most defined line up the north-west face. A true alpine environment to approach with great care... Read More
Bohuslän is Swedens foremost climbing area. The solid granite offers smooth vertical walls with clean splitters that makes it itch in the fingers of any crack climber. Trad-climbing areas like this are very rare in Europe. Those continuous finger or hand cracks you occasionally come across in the Alps (after 2h approach and 5 pitches of slab climbing) are lined up on 50-100m high walls, often rising off a lawn with playing children, a pick-nicking family or a few casual-looking cows. Read More
Kalymnos is possibly the most popular climbing crag in the world! Climbers in cooperation with locals have brought a massive increase to the tourism on Kalymnos. The flexibility shown by local tradesmen and the quantity of high-quality rock climbing achieved is impressive. However, Kalymnos have yet to prove the sustainability of a climbers based tourist economy as well as environmental responsibility. Read More
I am happy to report that the winter is back to normal i the Alps, but must admit that thanks to the 'Great Powder Depression' we have rediscover the dimension of ice climbing after years of continuos skiing. Lyckily we are not far away from the ice climbing paradise of Cogne, an amazing place to take your ice climbing skills to the next level or just have a great holiday! Read More
My idea of ice climbing was that it was a pure hassle and involved a lot of suffering, but this year I gave it a chance, just to understand the mystery of why people practice this intimidating sport. I found out what ice climbing is all about, and in the mean time I got to explore some easy ice climbing spots around Chamonix. Recommendations and current conditions. Read More
The satellite of Grands Charmoz catches the eye of every climber. The esthetic shape is a serious temptation for those who like to stand on top of a sharp rock needle with 1000m of air between them and the glacier. The Normal Route to La République offers a relatively easy way to the summit needle. Still the route is 600m long, mainly grade 4 alpine rock climbing, that requires efficacy in rope maneuvers, route finding and progress on traditional gear - it's a complete alpine adventure! Read More
Mountaineering itself is a celebration of nature, but when practiced by tens of thousands climbers every summer it inevitably causes progressive damage to the alpine environment. It is very much in the self-interest of alpinists to save our eco systmes and ensure that regulation of mountaineering stays minimal in the Alps. Read More
The right clothing significantly increases your comfort and also your chances for success when alpine climbing. Weather conditions and temperatures changes quickly in the Alps. You need to be able to stay dry and maintain the right degree of warmth from morning till the afternoon. Dress code of summer mountaineering with examples of items and brands. Read More
Driving south from Austria, through Slovenia, following the scenic road along the Croatian coast to reach Paklenica National park. Here a deep gorge extends from the sea to the mountains, lined with grey limestone walls up to 350m high. For technical climbing on the compact, grey limestone, and a sunny holiday by the sea, the place it perfect! Read More
For months now we have been keeping a close eye on the impressive north face of Dômes de Miage. Until now the 1100m high face has had patches of ice on it, but after all this snow in May it looks well filled in. This big face, that seldom is in such good conditions, seamed like a great way to end the amazing ski season of 2010. Read More
After the Easter holidays Chamonix gets quiet. The town is now all green and flowery, snow is settling on the high mountain faces, and barbecues are held everywhere (even on Mer de Glace!). We have been busy ski touring and ski mountaineering around Chamonix, escaping the pollen invasion by staying in the mountains, but occasionally coming down to attend a barbecue or two. Read More
What is alpine climbing and how do you attack and proceed in this activity? Climbing in the high mountains demands careful preparation and a certain amount of experience. Only by stepping up slowly, choosing the right objectives and acquiring the adequate skills before, this adventurous sport becomes safe and highly enjoyable. Read More
